Basil Sauce, Genoa-Style
Pesto is the basil-garlic sauce so popular along the Italian Riviera. Its foundation is always fresh basil, a small amount of garlic and the finest extra-virgin olive oil. Pine nuts and/or walnuts are added, as well as freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and/or Pecorino. Variations abound. (Cross the border into France, change the recipe just a bit by omitting the pine nuts and cheese and it becomes Sauce au Pistou.)
The best fresh basil comes from a tiny area called Pra, part of the Ligurian Riviera del Ponente. The sun, the Mediterranean and the wind provide ideal climate for growing basil plants with tiny leaves that are sweet and fragrant - sweeter than any you've probably ever tasted and with such a mesmerizing fragrance, that a tiny basil plant becomes a natural bouquet swathed in herbal perfume.
A few kilometers from Pra is the grand port of Genoa, famous for its pesto specialties. The Genovese love serving this sauce with a long-cut pasta, called trenette, or a small twisted pasta, called trofie, specialties of Genoa, too. You can substitute linguine or a long cut with squared diameter, "alla Chitarra". Sometimes they mix the cooked pasta and pesto with boiled potato slices and green beans. Try the sauce with a chilled salad of potatoes, green beans and ripe tomatoes. Or put on eggs, or on chicken, or mix into a rice salad, or whisk with mayo then slather on a slice of crusty bread, or accent fresh, creamy mozzarella. Endless possibilities. A modest amount of garlic and cheese added to this basil sauce is best as they concentrate in flavor during storage in the refrigerator. Make at least 1-2 days prior to serving so Pesto alla Genovese achieves its perfect balance.
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1
cup packed fresh basil leaves, cleaned (1 large bunch)
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2
tablespoons pine nuts
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1
small clove garlic, peeled, split in half
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3
tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
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2/3
cup extra-virgin olive oil (select a lighter oil with good fruit flavor)
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1
tablespoon tepid water
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sea salt to taste
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extra-virgin olive oil to cover pesto for storing
2. In a blender or food processor fitted with the metal chopping blade, add the heavier ingredients, the pine nuts and garlic. Chop finely. Add the grated cheese, basil and about half of the olive oil. Process until chopped finely, then scrape down the sides of the container. Slowly pour in the rest of the olive oil, and the water (which helps emulsification) while blending until a smooth paste is formed. Taste and season.
3. Immediately transfer the pesto to a container. Pour a layer of olive oil on top of the sauce which prevents oxygen from touching the surface and turning the sauce a dark green-brown color. Cover and refrigerate for 2 days to 2 weeks. Serve as is or gently heat for a brief time if tossing with boiled pasta. More grated cheese and salt and oil may be added when preparing the final dish.
