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La Cucina Italiana | Caffe & La Barista | Family Heirloom
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Executive Chef Gualtiero Marchesi of Ristorante Gualtiero Marchesi,
L’Albereta in Erbusco

Probably the most famous chef in Italy, Gualtiero Marchesi achieved the unthinkable. A three-star rating from Michelin in 1985 for his Milanese restaurant immortalized him as the first chef in Italy to earn this coveted recognition. He is known as the founder of the cooking style, Alta Cucina or La Cucina Nuova.

When I asked what important contributions he made to the culinary world, Marchesi replies, "To shake people up." He feels that for many people, cooking is an enjoyment; for him, cooking is a necessity and a commitment. With a warm smile and definite twinkle in his eye, Marchesi says he has begun his third youth, his first in maturity.

His philosophy of cooking...of life...is aptly summed in the quote from his menu, "I do not know any new program. I only know that art always shows itself in new shapes. There are always new possibilities. It is essential being that does not change, I believe. But if I speak of myself, I know I have no program. I just wish to catch what I see and feel and discover the purest expression."

 
Raviolo Aperto, Open Raviolo
Layered squares of pasta, remaining unsealed at the edges, are called raviolo aperto, open raviolo. Gualtiero Marchesi made this type of pasta and its delicate presentation famous in the world. One of his signature dishes, it has inspired many chefs.

Serves 6
  • Egg Sfoglia:

  • 5

    ounces “00" flour

  • 2

    large eggs, room temperature

  • 2

    teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

  •  

    salt

  • 6

    large Italian parsley leaves

Put the flour on a wooden board, make a well in the center and add the eggs, oil and salt. Beginning with the flour in the center, incorporate with the eggs, oil and salt, gradually uniting all ingredients, then knead to make a smooth, firm dough. Cover with a bowl and let rest for 1-3 hours.

  • Spinach Sfoglia:

  • 3.5

    ounces “00" flour

  • 3

    ounces fresh spinach leaves or 1/2 ounce thawed, drained frozen, minced

  • 1

    large egg, room temperature

  • 1 1/2

    teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

  •  

    salt

Follow above procedure putting the minced spinach in the center along with the other ingredients.

Roll-out the egg pasta to an 8"x 24" rectangle, about 1/16" thickness, cut into 12 4-inch squares. Select 6 parsley leaves, and place one leaf in the center of each of 6 squares. Place the other 6 squares on top, roll-out and trim edges to make 6 neat 4-inch squares. Repeat with the spinach pasta without parsley, cut into 6 neat 4-inch squares. Dry for 1 hour or until the pasta’s surface is a little dry to the touch.

  • Ripieno:

  • 4

    ounces cold unsalted butter, divided

  • 18

    ounces sea scallops (with roe if possible), muscle removed, 1/2-inch slices

  • 1 1/4

    cups fresh fish stock, divided

  • 1/4

    cup Italian white wine, divided

  • 1

    teaspoon grated fresh ginger mixed with 2 teaspoons cool water

  •  

    salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

1. In a medium sauté pan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter and sauté the scallops until the surface is opaque white, about 1 minute. Add 1/2 cup fish stock, simmer for 1 minute, add 1/8 cup wine and simmer for 1 minute. Pour the scallops into a colander to drain off the cooking liquid.

In the same sauté pan over medium heat, melt 1/2 tablespoon butter and add the remaining 3/4 cup fish stock. Reduce by half, 4-5 minutes. Add
the remaining 1/8 cup wine and reduce by half, 2-3 minutes. Transfer the scallops back into the pan and add 1/2 teaspoon ginger juice. Simmer for
1 minute. Remove from the heat. Allow to cool for 1 minute, then whisk in the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons cold butter to thicken sauce and season
to taste.

2. Pasta: In a large pot of salted boiling water, add the pasta squares and boil until al dente, 2-3 minutes. Immediately drain.

3. Plating: Place one spinach pasta square in the center of each plate. Using a slotted spoon, arrange the scallops on top of each spinach square and spoon 1 tablespoon sauce over. Then place one egg-parsley pasta square at a 90º angle on top of the scallops and spoon 1 tablespoon sauce over. Serve immediately.

Excerpt from “”Gualtiero Marchesi & L’Albereta” by Mary Beth Clark, published in the Journal of Italian Food & Wine
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