Executive Chef Enzo Parri of Ristorante da Enzo, Siena
Pinci, or pici, are hand-rolled strands of fresh pasta made with flour, water, a little salt and sometimes eggs. A ancient specialty of Tuscany, traditionally no egg was used for making this pasta since eggs were considered too precious to waste. Since each pinci strand must be individually rolled, and is time-consuming to make, substitute a round, somewhat thick, dried pasta such as perciatelli.
Tarragon is the herb favored in Senese cooking, unusual in Italy since it is often thought of as a French flavoring. Catherine Benincasa (1347-1480) canonized by Pope Pius II and declared Patroness Saint of Italy in 1939 by Pope Pius XII, introduced tarragon to the locale.
Olive oil, bread and herbs provide a classic structure upon which many Tuscan dishes are derived. Years ago, when the average home did not have an oven, the housewife brought her rising bread to il fornaio, the bread baker, to be baked. Usually this occurred once a week to keep expenses down. So, what to do with leftover, stale bread? Use it in salads, soups and pasta. This sauce is a typical blend of extra-virgin olive oil with pasta water, flavored with bread and herbs. Chef Enzo Parri prepares innovative cucina with respect for tradition. Less fat, simpler...in other words the new style of cooking sweeping Italy today. Even his home style cooking has elegance and grace.
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1/2
cup extra-virgin olive oil
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8
whole large cloves garlic, lightly crushed
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1
cup dried large breadcrumbs (5 ounces bread)
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8
anchovy filets, oil-packed, rinsed and dried, chopped
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1
cup hot pasta water, divided
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1
tablespoon fresh tarragon, chopped
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salt and coarsely ground black pepper
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1
pound dried perciatelli or 20 ounces fresh pinci
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fresh basil, chopped for garnish
2. Pasta: In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the pinci, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, until al dente. (Scoop out 1 cup pasta water and reserve.) Briefly drain the pinci leaving a little water clinging to the strands, then immediately add to the topping. Add the tarragon and toss. Pour in the reserved pasta water as needed to make a little sauce so the pasta doesn't dry out. Season to taste. Transfer to serving plates, sprinkle with basil and serve immediately.
Chef’s Note: Tuscan bread is saltless. To make breadcrumbs, select dense white bread with low sodium content when possible. Remove the crust, and cut the bread into 1" thick slices, then 1" cubes. Dry overnight or in a 225º F oven. Put cubes in a plastic bag and crush with a rolling pin until they are the size of a kernel of unpopped popcorn. If the bread is flavorful with sufficient salt, rinse the anchovies under water to remove excess salt and pat dry, then chop.
Excerpt from “Siena” by Mary Beth Clark, published by the Journal of Italian Food, Wine & Travel
